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What is so amazing about surfing? everyone says it is just amazing, but you ride a wave for a couple seconds? |
What is so amazing about surfing? everyone says it is just amazing, but you ride a wave for a couple seconds? you are just jealous because you cant surf, its the best thing ever! you glide on water! just the feeling is wonderful!!! nobody understands until they try it. Its the thrill excitement, and adrenaline rush of riding the wave for a few seconds. Its the thrill of trying to beat mother nature. You are sitting there in an environment where humans aren't ment to be. A wave comes and it is your skill and abilities that get you onto the face of it and keeps you there. As you ride it you feel the power and energy of the wave and it makes you kinda feel like an ant on the scale of things as you a riding something that could turn over cars and destroy buildings. After all you are ssliding down the face of a few tons of moving water And here you are riding it on a piece of shaped foam with an acrylic coating. You never know for sure what it is going to do. Is it going to let you be a passenger or is it going to close out on you and drive you into the bottom. And IF you get the chance to get in the green room, it feels like you are in a monsters mouth as it growls and hisses at you, and its up to you to get back out otherwise it will eat you. You look up and you can see the sun through the water and foam rolling over your head. Only a surfer knows the feeling. And on top of all that, it is a challenge. There's so much more to surfing than just riding a wave for a couple of seconds. I wrote this some time back. It's the basis for my stoke and way more then just the ride, it's the experience. Several feelings are experienced during different parts of the surfing experience. If I meet friends, we visit during our drive, or sometimes stop for breakfast and then spend a few moments socializing. These are usually old friends with a common interest in surfing. We strive to leave our daily lives behind and focus on the simple pleasures surfing provides. Looking out at the waves early in the morning fills your eyes with beauty, even on poor surf days. The beach itself is uncrowded and serene, the waves boom in the distance, the water has a bluish tint with white frosty soup rolling in towards the shore, and, if there are surfers out, their gliding motion on the waves create the visual equivalent of music to my senses. I carry my board to the water and pause for a moment, a ritual I've performed many times, something akin to an artist looking at a blank canvas. Will this be a good day or will I even survive the sometimes-dangerous acts I'm about to perform. If the waves are challenging, I seek the best place and time to paddle out, and where I might be lucky enough to catch the best waves. Then, suddenly, I make my mad dash for the outside, forgetting cold, fatigue, what I did last night, and everything else. Finally, I'm out in the lineup and again pause to catch my breath and get into position. It was easy when I was young, but the years have made this mad dash seem to last ever longer. My cares are left on the beach and it's time to become one with nature. If I'm by myself, I get the feel of the ocean and relax until a rideable wave appears. If I'm out with friends, we socialize the same as we might during breakfast. When my wave starts to form, paddle like crazy, drop, and then throw caution to the wind as I try to dominate the wave I've selected. If the surf is challenging, particularly large surf, my heart pumps, and I feel the adrenaline flowing as I take the drop. In small surf, I try to become an artist on the wave, using what the wave offers to make the most of my ride. There is a rush even in small surf, but small surf allows more of my creative side to exhibit itself. Finally, I'm tired, my arms ache, I'm cold, or I'm out of time and I either catch a wave or paddle in to shore. I pick my board up and walk up the beach, looking at the spectators to see if anyone acknowledges what I've accomplished. I'm a showman at heart, and I get still another rush if I hear someone on the beach says "boy that was a great wave you caught." Eventually I go to my car and drive home. I'm happy that my day has started so well. I dunno, I mostly like the power of the ocean and how it just beats it out of you, plus it's land, air, and sea all coming together, and it's just fun. (Once I had a hair tie around my wrist and got completely pummeled and the wave actually pulled it off and I lost it.) |
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